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Cherokee Transmission Swap
Swapping out a 1987 Peugeot to a 1996 AX-15
I have been driving my 1987 Cherokee since October 1991. After owning it for 6 months, I started to modify it for my off-highway rides. I installed custom bumpers, winch, 4" lift, ran 32" AT's, and installed 4.56 gears with ARB's. My 2dr 4x4 Pioneer model Cherokee came from CA equipped with 4.0l, 5-speed, AC, Dana 44 rear, and with 90k miles. I wheeled in this configuration for over 6 years with little to no major problems of breakage.
After 80k+ miles, I broke my Peugeot BA10/5 transmission on a trail ride in July 1997 driving up an incline I have done too many times to recall. I couldn't tell you if it was rebuilt prior to my purchase but it lasted till 160,000 miles. I was unemployed at the time and had no capability ($$$) to immediately repair/replace the tranny. The damage to the trans was I only had 1st, 2nd and 5th gears. I had no gates for 3rd, 4th and reverse gears. In 2nd, the whining would make you cry. I could be heard from several hundred feet away.
Once I got re-employed, my options were:
After hearing of the difficulties associated with the design of the Peugeot tranny, purchasing another with/without rebuild would be a high risk and not be a good swap. I personally do not have the income to be able to build a real rock crawler so the granny trans would be out, and the OD option is too costly. Installing a NV4500 could have been a possibility but the floor would have had been 'reformed' to fit the trans also.
Rebuilding the stock trans requires someone else to do the work which costs $$$. 2 years ago I replaced the leaking internal release bearing along with a new clutch and pp. Had no problems with doing the work.
I prefer to do my own work on the truck so I opted for the stock upgrade option - installing an AX-15. Looking at all options, my placed budget at $2000. I went looking around for an AX-15 that had an external salve cylinder (newer design). I would require all bolts, mounts, everything to do the swap. Even though my XJ is a 4.0l generation XJ, there are minor differences between the years. I was taking the first year production 4.0l truck and replacing the trans with a newer model tranny. I would require all involved in the swap.
I finally found a 96 Cherokee with 33k miles sitting in a cycle yard. I negotiated a stiff hefty price ($1200) for the trans but it would come with everything for the swap except the transfer case (t/c). After investigating the possibilities of such a trans swap, my t/c required a swap of its own. The Peugeot has a 21 spline count output shaft. The AX-15 has a 23 spline count output shaft. I would be required to replace the input shaft of the t/c to mate it to the AX-15. Looking at a cost of $200 (Advance Adapters, Inc.) for it. I tried to negotiate with the yard to get the t/c along with the tranny, but they wanted another $750 for it plus my core! Not doable. Way out of my budget for stock replacement trans swap.
In addition while upgrading my Cherokee over the years, I replaced my output shaft/tail cone with a MIT kit and converted my rear driveshaft to a two piece design.. If I was to make a deal on the newer t/c, I would have to switch out the tail cones. Also, a 1996 XJ t/c has the electro-speedo and no vacuum switch to run my disconnect front axle. When installing the MIT kit, I did this with the t/c in the truck and had no problems doing it. So I felt confident of taking the t/c apart and replacing the input gear, more savings of $$$ on my part.
So with $$$ spent on the AX-15, I got:
bellhousing
crank sensor (why? I don't know)
reservoir
external slave unit
no hose (bad mistake)
release bearing and fork
tranny
shifter/boots
shifting rods for t/c actuation
crossmember
trans mount
all bolts/nuts that came from removing the trans out.
With some help from a fellow enthusiast and club member (its best to have friends in the same hobby) named John, he and I did the trans swap in his driveway in a townhouse community at night over a period several weeks. Its not acceptable to do such repairs on your property in a townhouse community, but it was the cheapest way of doing it. I live in a townhouse environment too but he offered his place since he has a good allotment of tools.
It took over 3 weeks partly do to me doing all the work myself until I need support from John. John recently moved into this townhouse (which has a garage) and he was organizing his territory to his liking if you get my meaning (air compressor, large tool box, bench areas, etc.). What also didn't help with time was the parts availability.
I would take apart the t/c to find the 4x4 fork plastic guides off the shift fork and its all in the pump screen. This requires dealership special order. Plus we are both married and have young children which required our attention some evenings.
In my opinion, the swap could be done in 2- 8hrs days or less if all possible wear items are available for replacement. I have a parts cost description below. One thing to take special note is the hydraulic hose from the reservoir to the slave cylinder. Its plugged into the reservoir and the slave cylinder and the whole item comes as One Unit. The yard cut the hose off to speed the removal up which cost me another $122 for a complete 1-piece unit from the dealer.
Night #1
It wasn't difficult to remove my stock tranny/tc out from underneath the Cherokee. It took 3 hours to prepare (interior/exterior) and remove the tranny/tc out. To help with the removal, I totally removed the exhaust system and starter. The bellhousing is held to the engine via 2 6-pt. star bolts up top on the bellhousing (requires special reverse torx E-12 socket), 2 size 11mm bolts holding the crank sensor on, 2 size 15mm bellhousing side bolts, 2 19mm size bottom bellhousing bolts, 2 (1-14mm size and 1-15mm size) bolts holding the starter on, and 3 10mm size sheetmetal screws displaced evenly along the bottom 2/3 of the bellhousing. To remove the trans easily, I previously matched the side bolts with long studs. I slid on 2 precut long screws (ex-bolts with heads cut off and a slice in it for the screwdriver) in place of the 2 side bolts. This helps support the trans upon removal and reinstallation. They act as long guides. Then remove all other bolts and slide the trans out. With the Peugeot on the ground, I took measurements in comparison of old trans to new trans. Took some pics (which with a bad camera, nothing came out). Both had same length of input shaft beyond the bellhousing (meaning could use same pilot bearing), measured real close to same length from bellhousing to tc mating surface of trans (meaning same location for tc and driveshaft lengths), and measured for shifter location (meaning same location of shifter hole). What I didn't measure and did find out it was necessary, was the location of the crossmember and the 4x4 actuator linkage. More on this later.
Inside the bellhousing of the Peugeot, it looked like it had the ability to have the external slave unit bolted to it. There was a place on the right side for a ball stud for the pivot point of the release fork/bearing such as on the AX-15. However, the Peugeot would require drilled holes for the studs to hold the slave unit on the side as in the AX-15.
Night #2
Removed t/c from trans. Received new input gear. Upon inspection on the input gear, the were several cuts on one tooth of the gear. Returned it to AA for another. I also checked to make sure this new gear would work with the 23-spline output shaft of the AX-15. This delayed my time for another 5 days on a holiday weekend! After contacting AA about the input gear problem, I inquired about other possible scenarios which could delay the install. I was told to get a new bearing and seal to go along with the input gear. I ordered those from local Jeep dealer. Took another 4 days. Looking at the possibility of using the same pilot bearing, I purchased new pilot bearings for a 87 XJ with 4.0l 5-sp and for 96 XJ with 4.0l 5-sp. WOW! There is a huge difference between them. The 87 had an outside diameter close to 1" with ~ 0.625" inside diameter. The 96 had ~ 1.75" outside diameter with ~ 0.8125" inside diameter. Major difference. The pilot bearing had to have an inside diameter of ~ 0.8125" to fit onto the 96 AX-15. I removed the pressure plate and clutch to get a good look at the old pilot bearing and the scenario for the new one. There were 2 levels for pilot bearings to fit in the end of the crank. I could fit the 96 application in the outer level, but both trannys had the same measured shaft length beyond the bellhousing face. This outer level may interfere with the clutch splines of the input shaft. My 87 application pilot bearing is set to be in the inner level. I would have to find a bearing capable of having the ~1" outside diameter with ~0.8125" inside diameter. Plus the same depth of the 87 application (~0.625"). What application has this? I expected to be looking for several days through the parts book of the dealership.
Luckily, I was doing this with some help from John who owns a 73 CJ5 equipped with 304,3sp. He replaced his pilot bearing several years ago and happened to keep the old one around. It looks very similar to the needs. Took measurements and VOILA, its fits real close to the needed application! I went out and purchased a new one for that application. It was a little longer in depth to the 87 but it fit the input shaft of the trans and was real close to the outside diameter of the 87 pilot bearing. Even though it was overall a tad deeper than the 87 application, I still have some room in the crank end to fit it. It wouldn't be flush with the crank face but it would fit and most importantly...............WORK!
Night #3
Took the Peugeot apart to see what was wrong. Come to find the synchro packs for the 1-2 and 3-4 gears were destroyed. The forks fell into the synchro pack and wouldn't budge out. Also, the input shaft of the trans had atleast 1" movement in a circle pattern. Very bad for a trans. The bearings were shot. The synchros gone. The input gear synchro was gone. When driving it to John's house 20 miles away from mine, I would have it out of gear at stop lights, however, I still would creep into the intersection. I had to stop the engine. The input gear synchro was gone and it showed on the input gears why I was going into the intersections. The looseness made contact with the gear teeth and this moved me into the intersections. Take note: the original crossmember does have the holes necessary to place the AX-15 trans mount on it. The 96 AX-15 crossmember only has the holes for the AX-15 mount.
Night #4
Upon taking the t/c apart, I found lots of plastic in the pump screen and the magnetic disc was full of dark sludge. What went wrong? What is this stuff? What had happened is the plastic bushings for the 4x4 fork dislodged, broke apart and became plastic soup in the case from the gears/chain. Then the metal-to-metal contact by the fork and the synchro made tiny part-like metallic pieces float around until they were magnetized to the disc.
Delays once again.
Bought new plastic bushings (special order) and installed them. Cleaned up the magnetized disc and reinstalled. Had a machine shop press the new bearing onto the new gear. However, I needed to transfer the pump paddles (sorry no pics bad camera) to the new gear. Had the machine shop press off the old bearing, transfer the pump paddles to the new gear, and press on the new bearing. Then united trans to t/c. It FITS! One piece of the puzzle working towards completion.
Night #5
Ran the hydraulic external release bearing around my crowded engine room. Its a 1-piece unit which was difficult to maneuver under the first generation of the 4.0l XJ. Ran into a little problem with the clutch brace on the clutch bracket under the dash. The original reservoir on the firewall is installed with a stud and bolt. The new application is installed with 2 studs, 1 on the support bracket and the other on the reservoir. Plus the mounting point of the reservoir rod is smaller than the original. I checked all stud locations prior to running it around the engine area. I did have to ream out a little the support brace. I did not check the rod mounting point diameter. It wouldn't fit on the clutch pedal. I had to remove it out of the busy engine bay, drill out to a larger diameter the mounting point of the rod to the clutch pedal, and re-install the one piece unit. ROYAL PITA!!! to do a job twice. Installed the pilot bearing, clutch and pp.
Night #6
Lined everything up and cleared all lines. Removed the breather cap on the trans and added a breather hose to the top of the tranny. Ran this to the valve cover. Did the same with the t/c hose. Configured the reverse switch to mate to the original harness. Installed a new release bearing. Lined up the tranny/t/c combo and installed it.
While I had the trans out, I hesitated about closing up the open areas on the trans. It was discussed on different jeep lists about filling these holes in to help keep debris out of the clutch area. I took a light and moved it around the rest of the bellhousing, its not sealed all around at all. So I left it and saw no point in filling it in.
Mounted it to the engine with no problems. Verified the location of the trans shifter looks good. Installed the mount, then the crossmember.
But what now!!!
The crossmember is moved back 4 or so inches. The trans is attached to the engine. It wasn't longer in any shape than the Peugeot. Took a measurement in respect to the Peugeot location in the frame in relationship to the front lower control arm mount. Compare this to the AX-15 donator and there is a 4" difference! There are holes in the frame for this but they are not threaded. My XJ holds the crossmember with a stud/bolt and screw combo. The screw is inserted into a threaded hole in the frame. See miles2.gif
items #16, 15 and 11 are typical for the XJ. Pulled up the carpet. Above the stock location for the stud, there is a plug hole. Popped the plug and there is a plate with bolt looking blocks in the location of the holes. I will have to tap the holes to accept whatever screw I intend to use (larger than the hole itself). Delayed once again. Went to get the metric tap (10x1.5mm) to fit the stock screws.
Night #7
Cut threads into the frame holes. Cut holes in crossmember to provide room for the original stud/screw arrangement of the stock crossmember. The crossmember is 6" or so wide where its moved back only 4" in the swap. Installed crossmember. Went to install the 4x4 shifter linkage. The shifter rod on the Peugeot was to long for the application of the AX-15. If you look at miles1.gif, you will see item #11. On the AX-15 its total length is 6". On the Peugeot its 10".I also had to replace the floor mount (items #14) of the pivot point for the shifter rods because of the location of the trans is approximately 4" back. In the pic it shows its close to middle of the bracket. In the AX-15 application, its back near the rear. This piece is the floor mounted point for the linkage near the trans. Everything is relative!! When I removed the linkage from the donor, I cut away at the joint between item #11 and #9. Of course its easier to cut away at something small so I cut at item # 11 to break it loose from the truck.
Then there is the support for the exhaust. Mine came with a 'c' channel which is welded to the catalytic converter. In miles2.gif, item #21. The 96 comes with a rod for support. John cut the channel and I place the rod into the 'c' channel and left it as is. Installed the starter and truck is up and running.
My initial pics were trash. I went and got the attachments from the dealership to help describe it in a drawing form.
In looking over (Picture coming..), items 24 are the trans mount. The spread of the bolts is different in comparison between the 2 trannys. However, my 87 crossmember is predrilled for both mounts whereas the 96 is not.
Item #17 is similar to the Peugeot mount.
Item # 25 shows how the crossmember is relocated back 4". That leading plate has 4 holes to mount to the AX-15. I can get at the AX-15 mounting bolts without removing the crossmember.
On the Peugeot, I could not. On miles1.gif, the pic does not show a comparison to item #16.
Item 16 is the location for the trans support of the t/c linkage. On the Peugeot it was just a little flat plate which had a bent finger on it to keep it from rotating on the Peugeot.
Its a swap which is easily done but can come with headaches and delays as I have found out. Hopefully this write-up will entice the DIY's in doing the same even if its with the AX-5 swap. I didn't get into too much detail in breaking down the parts and re-installing them, because it:
Its not difficult to tear into something then reassemble it like it was. The t/c is this kind of design. There are several levels which requires the removal of a snap ring, but it all slides together and they are all different size snap rings. Only one place to put it. The torque settings are:
Jeep Dealership Purchases:
*Side note: The cycle yard did have a Peugeot trans from a stolen XJ with 135k miles. They would guarantee the trans for 90 days. It sold for $950. I took the AX-15 route in looking to keep my XJ on the road or off by my choice whenever I can.
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